A soft-spoken, genial man, Modi’s aim was to lift curry from the all-too-familiar British “Vindaloo” and “Madras” to the ranks of haute cuisine, and succeeded in attracting a clientele that included Indians and Hollywood celebrities as well as British diners.

oday, Britain has a multi-billion-pound Indian food industry with many exclusive restaurants, but Modi’s Bombay Brasserie is recognised as being the first of its kind.