For Nowruz, the Parsi New Year, which this year fell on August 19, a particularly long queue spilled out of Britannia Café’s doors and onto the wide boulevard of Mumbai’s elegant Ballard Estate. A cheery red and white sign offered clues to explain the patience and persistence of the hungry Sunday lunch: “There is no greater love than the love of eating.”

A rainbow of Parsi, Hindu, British and French names were added to a waiting-list and a head waiter barked out orders as tables became available. Above him, an old black and white photograph of the restaurant’s founder, Rashid Kohinoor, oversaw proceedings.

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Courtesy : Dinyar Patel