If you haven’t gone beyond lagan-nu-custard, you ain’t seen nothing yet. The first of a two-part series on deliciously sweet Parsi snacks.

While the rest of Mumbai would imagine waking up at 4.30 am for a jog or to cram for an exam, Khursheed Irani labours over buxom daar ni poris. The quarter plate-sized pastry with a flaky ghee-laden, crisp exterior holds within it a toor daal stuffing that carries an aftertaste of rosewater. The outer case is coated with what’s called ‘maan’ — a glaze of ghee and rice flour beaten frantically till it reaches butter-like consistency.

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