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With 113 Years Of Legacy, Here’s The Story Of Mumbai’s Popular Kyani

Farokh Shokri sits at a table distant from the cash counter but directly opposite so as not to miss any transactions. With a snowy mane and a friendly demeanor, Farokh seems to have just finished his breakfast when we meet him, and is looking pensively at his multivitamins and medicines. And at 55, managing Kayani & Co., a restaurant with a legacy can be difficult because he looks slightly stressed while accounting for his bills and supplies.

FAROKH SHOKHRI HANDLES KYANI

He makes it a point to tell us that his name is ‘Farokh’ and not ‘Farooq’ as people always mishear or mispronounce it as. “It’s a more common mistake than you can think. People always end up saying ‘Farooq’, which is usually a Muslim name,” he corrects us.

Old is still bold

Kayani & Co. is known to be one of the oldest restaurants in Mumbai. It has been standing strong, its interiors jovial with engraved darkwood panels for almost 113 years, in a building that evidently looks its age, but sturdy nonetheless. The restaurant is so quaint from the inside, it’s hard to guess what’s oozing the charm – sepia toned pictures of a hundred years old Mumbai, the small bakery section at one corner of the restaurant, the preserved black bentwood chairs or the checkered mats over the square and some round tables all across the café.

Kyani’s, as it is fondly known, was established in 1904 by a gentleman named Khodram Marezban and was taken over in late 1959 by Aflatoon Shokri, Farokh’s father. Since then it’s the Shokri family that has been retaining the restaurant’s glory. Its namesake in Pune, however, is run by a completely different family, Farokh informs us.

Apart from the obvious legacy that the restaurant has inherited, the authenticity of Parsi-style dishes and old Bombay has also been retained here. The cacophony of constant traffic outside makes you aware that you’re in 2017, but it’s very easy to imagine that at one point in time, Kyani restaurant bakery was one of the most important hang-out places for the people of Mumbai. The place still makes a bold statement with the kind of interiors it has preserved.

The glam factor

“I came to know from my father that Shashi Kapoor and M F Hussain were regulars here. They would sit with their bun maska and chai, and kept it to themselves,” Farokh told us. We asked him if he himself had had any encounters with celebrities, “I have had none, but I do remember the stories of these two men that my father told me,” he said.

ANY DISH ORDERED AT KYANI’S IS A CULINARY TREAT – A SIMPLE HALF FRIED EGG AND FRANKFURTERS AND AN OMLET PAV IS WHAT WE FEASTED ON

 

The charming interior of the place – the high roof and the mezzanine floor is something that simply cannot be ignored. But the other thing that can never be ignored at Kyani’s is the aroma of some really delicious food that is cooked here. It’s a culinary treat in its best form. Be it a cup of chai infused with a generous amount of elaichi, a freshly made Chicken Pattice, a breakfast of Half Fry with Frankfurters, or eating Chicken Tandoori or Kheema Pav, the sheer simplicity of these dishes is what makes them worth chasing after from any part of the city you live in.

Memories and tragedies

The relatively recent outbreak of restaurant franchises in Mumbai have no doubt, gained instant popularity among the youth, but the number of young people – especially couples coming here is surprising. And we’re sure it’s not just the pocket-friendly prices and melt-in-your-mouth bun-maska that lure the youth here, it’s the charisma of the place that brings them here. The round shaped tables, for example, are more than a hundred years old.

CHECKERED MATS ADORN THE TABLES AT KYANI

“We have had to change some of the tables and replace them with square ones because some of them broke down during my father’s time. We have managed to retain some of these though, the ones with Italian marbles-laden over wood,” he smiles and shows us the table where he’s sitting.

And much to our fancy, there are many more of these tables on the mezzanine floor above, which is made accessible only when the floor below gets too crowded.

Kyani’s is almost diagonally opposite to Metro theatre, again a part of the cluster of heritage locations in Mumbai. Being at a prime location has its set of complications as well. Complications lead to stories. One of the stories is the fateful night of 26/11 terrorist attack when the jeep full of terrorists passed from right in front of the bakery. Farokh recalls that it was a close call for them. “The bakery closes at about 9 pm. I remember I was at a wedding that day and saw the chaos that has ensued on TV when I reached home,” he said.

Long live legacy

Farokh says that the reason Irani bakeries and their legacies are slowly fading away is that of the lack of interest of the new generation. “A lot of children from our community have settled abroad, or want to do something else. I took over from my father, but whether or not my children will do the same will depend entirely on them. My daughter’s 19, and son is 13, so they are still too young to make this decision but whatever that may be, I will have to respect that,” he said.

PICTURES OF MUMBAI WHEN IT WAS BOMBAY HANG ON THE WALLS OF THIS QUAINT RESTAURANT

And perhaps that is the one thing most Parsi bakeries are facing – extinction by the gap of generation. Suckers for history and lovers of the good ol’ Bombay will be disappointed if these Irani restaurants cease to continue. And one can only wish that in the era of remakes and revamps, places like Kyani’s are not stripped off its personality and re-wrapped into something God-forbiddingly ‘new’.

Click Here for the full story, with many more pics – http://www.indiatimes.com/news/india/with-113-years-of-legacy-here-s-the-story-of-mumbai-s-popular-kyani-co-bakery-326777.html

Living the Parsi way

A statue of Sir Pherozeshah Mehta, an emminent Parsi, in front of BMC building.

A statue of Sir Pherozeshah Mehta, an emminent Parsi, in front of BMC building.

 

A heritage walk in the city promises to acquaint one with the Parsi community in the city

Established in 1934, Cusrow Baug covers an area of 84,000 square yards and is home to over 500 families, making it one of the largest Parsi settlements in South Mumbai. If you are curious about the Parsi culture and have always wanted to learn more about them, Parsi Potporri, a heritage tour might be the answer to your calling. The walk promised to explore the colourful culture of Parsis. Hosted by Ananya Bahl, the tour will get to explore the Parsi faith, and their daily way of life. Akash Ahuja from the team at Seek Sherpa tells us, “I’ve had the good fortune of having very close friends who are Parsi/Irani. So, I’ve witnessed traditional Navjotes, Parsi wedding celebrations and other customs and traditions first-hand. I’ve grown quite familiar to their ways — how they talk, what they eat, drink and their culture, overall. Coming from a diverse cultural background myself, I can relate to their cultures and community beliefs.”

“The walk starts from Parsi Dairy Farm. We cover two Parsi Agiaries (Fire Temples), outside which I will explain how these came into existence and what is the significance of these temples. The entry, however, is restricted to Parsis only. From there, we will delve deep into the day-to-day lifestyle of the community. We will visit some of the iconic Parsi stores, followed by a visit to a legendary Irani cafe, Kyani and Co.,” he adds. After enjoying the heavenly combination of chai and bun maska, you will visit a traditional Parsi baug to know more about how these settlements came into being and what makes them unique.

Heritage walks are a beautiful space to disseminate information to people sharing the same interests. Having conducted such walks in the past, Akash thinks meeting new people and exchanging information is crucial to know more about a culture. He adds, “The experience is really great. I am a travel writer and enthusiast, so meeting new people and social exchange is always high priority for me. With the Parsi walk, I can also make people understand the diversity of cultures in the city of dreams — Mumbai.”

For Akash, the famous ‘sugar in the milk’ story holds importance. “Legend has it that when Parsi faith believers arrived in India, they were not allowed to enter or settle in Gujarat by the king. When they requested asylum, the king showed them a vessel filled with milk, signifying that they have no place for refugees in the kingdom. In response, one of the Zoroastrian refugees added a little bit of sugar in the vessel, saying they will settle in the community like sugar in the milk. And since then, they also agreed to use Gujarati as their language (with a twist), carrying no weapons, making sure that the women wear sarees (to which they have added their own style of embroidery), and marriages to be performed in evenings. Parsis agreed to all of that, and yet they differentiate themselves by adding unique sweet twists to all these things, like sugar in the milk,” he concluded.

On September 4, 2 pm,
Meeting Point: outside Parsi Dairy Farm, Princess Street.
For enquiries: 9643982934
Registration fees: Rs 700

 

http://www.asianage.com/life-and-style/living-parsi-way-115

 

SCHOOLS GET ARCHITECTS TO SAVE A CHAPTER OF THEIR OWN HISTORY

Old school: JB Petit High School. (TOI photo: Rizwan Mithawala)Old school: JB Petit High School. (TOI photo: Rizwan Mithawala)

When the Bharda High School building was established in the 19th century, its neo-classical facade looked out on the vast expanse of the Bombay esplanade. Sea breeze streamed through the louvered windows of its grand hall, up the majestic central staircase and through the wrought iron grilles crowning its wooden doorways. “You could see all the way to Jer Mahal from here,” says conservation architect Vikas Dilawari, referring to the heritage building that houses Kyani and Company at Metro junction.

The landscape around Bharda has changed in a myriad ways since then— the esplanade has been diced into maidans and the sea has been beaten back by reclamations and tetrapods— but within the school’s walls, an army of painters, masons and carpenters are trying to turn back the clock. Wooden doors are being scraped of paint, marble floors are being polished and its “Bhau-Daji-Lad-Museum-style” staircase —sporting Hindu deities—is being painstakingly restored. “Instead of the usual ‘spit and polish’ repairs, we decided to hire a conservation architect and do a perfect job,” explains trustee Muncherji Cama, adding that a well and stables were discovered during the restoration process because it was once the home of a Bhatia trader.

Like Bharda, a number of Mumbai’s schools are celebrating their history and taking pride in their built heritage. The Byramjee Jejeebhoy Parsi Charitable Institution (BJPCI), a Muscular Gothic structure on Charni Road, has kept Dilawari on its rolls as a maintenance architect for 26 years, while Cathedral and John Connon School’s three colonial-style buildings in Fort— designed by the Royal Bombay Yacht Club’s John Adams—were restored by urban conservationist Brinda Somaya in the 1990s.

At JB Petit High School in Fort, the school’s 156-year-old history is mapped on a colourful bulletin board in a child’s imagination. There’s a smiling Miss Prescott with button eyes and a blue-and-white pinafore, who got the land to start the school for Indian girls in 1867, and a moustachioed Premchand Roychand—sporting an orange turban—who gave the school a generous grant in 1875. And nostalgic selfies with the marble bust of the school’s namesake, philanthropist Jehangir Bomanji Petit, who prevented its takeover by another educational institute, are mandatory for outgoing batches.

JB’s original two-storey stone building—now woefully inadequate for the school’s expanding needs—still exists with its Gothic pillars, arches, cantilevered wooden staircase and eagle perched atop the pediment. Today, the trustees and parent body want to “modernise the campus” by demolishing the later concrete additions and building a contemporary structure. But the school is so attached to its heritage block that they’ve hired conservation architect, Abha Narain Lambah, to ensure that the new structure doesn’t clash with the old. “The heritage committee recently issued a no objection certificate saying, ‘The new structure is a contemporary addition but is respectful and sensitive to the historic building’,” says Lambah.

At BJPCI, Dilawari’s interventions have been sporadic depending on when funds are available. He’s scrubbed the stone arches and pillars free of paint, repaired the school’s piece de resistance, which is a cantilevered stone-cum-wood staircase and restored the stained glass gracing the library’s rose window. Perhaps his most ambitious project was re-creating Athena, the Greek virgin goddess of reason, arts and literature, atop the central pediment. “Only one trustee, who was a former student, remembered the statue, which disappeared many decades ago, and so the new design was based on his recollection,” says principal Pavana Anchees.

Few Mumbai buildings have crowning features—CST boasts a statue of Progress and the BMC building has the Primus in indis–making the BJPCI part of an elite club.

Restoring a school presents unique challenges because classes can’t be stopped indefinitely. Architects must work during the summer holidays and steer clear of construction work during exam season. Raising funds for sensitive restorations also poses a challenge. While the restoration work in Bharda and BJPCI is being funded by the schools’ trusts, JB has set up a fundraising committee. In fact, the principal, Benaifer P Kutar, was told that since JB is a girls’ school—and women don’t control the purse strings in a household—financing the project would be problematic. But JB, which was one of the first schools in the city to admit Indian girls, has a history of defying the odds. “Our girls will meet the challenge,” the principal retorts.

Nobody learns Parsi history in schools, says historian

unnamedOn just a short stretch of Veer Nariman Road in Fort, beginning at the stained glass enclosure of the Bhikha Behram Well and ending at the v-shaped Eros Cinema with its Art Deco dome, six Parsi gents are memorialized. There are three bronze statues of Sir Hormusjee Cowasjee Adenwalla, the man credited with building much of modern Aden, Indian National Congress president Sir Dinshaw Edulji Wacha and merchant-philanthropist Sir Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy. The well is named after its Parsi founder, who migrated here from Broach (Bharuch) in 1715, and Eros Cinema with its grand marble foyer was built on reclaimed land by the Cambata family. The road itself is named after Khurshed Framji Nariman, a fiery member of the Indian National Congress, who exposed the ‘Backbay Reclamation’ scandal orchestrated by a British engineer.

“It’s amazing how many buildings and statues have a strong Parsi connection,” says Zoroastrian scholar, Khojeste Mistree, who will be conducting a heritage walk at 9am today for anyone interested in learning about the community’s contribution to the city’s built heritage. “The aim is to instill a sense of pride in the community, which seems to always be embroiled in controversy and bickering,” he said. The 2.5-hour walk, organised by Jiyo Parsi – a government scheme meant to arrest the decline of the Parsi population – will begin at the Parsi well and end at the Irani restaurant, Kyani and Co, at Dhobi Talao.

A lot of “mystery and religiosity” has grown around this sweet-water Parsi well, which before the reclamation was close to the sea, says Mistree about the tour’s starting point. That isn’t surprising considering the tale of its origin emphasizes the power of religion. The well was built as an act of thanksgiving by Bhikha Behram after he was captured and released by the Marathas on showing them his religious garments – the sudreh and kusti. “When they established that he was a Parsi, he was let off,” says Mistree. He adds, “During the plague when all the other wells were shut, Bhikha Behram was one of the only wells where the water was drunk and nobody died.”

Mistree, who is the founder of the Zoroastrian Studies institute, has been conducting such walks for 15 years for diplomats, art historians and history buffs. “Nobody studies Parsi history in schools,” he says. During the walk, participants will learn that Flora Fountain was donated by a Parsi, the contractor in charge of building VT station was a Parsi and both Central Bank and HSBC have a Parsi connection. They will also get a chance to hear about institutions like the Parsi ambulance brigade, JN Petit Library and the Bombay Parsi Punchayet building. As for Capitol Cinema, a little-known fact is that many erstwhile film actresses and composers like the Homji sisters (who took on aliases like Saraswati Devi and Chandraprabha) were Parsis. “The community shunned them because they thought it was immoral for any lady to act in a cinema,” says Mistree.

http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/mumbai/Nobody-learns-Parsi-history-in-schools-says-historian/articleshow/46007191.cms